Monday, November 24, 2008

Romance Scarf

I call this my romance scarf because I made it with yarn that was the same colors as my wedding colors.

Materials needed:
worsted weight yarn
H hook

Gauge is not important in this pattern.

Do not weave in ends. Finish off each color at the end of a row. The end can be worked into the fringe if it is long enough.

Special stitches:
V Stitch (dc, chain 1, dc) in same stitch

Foundation Chain is in multiples of 3. Chain to desired length. (I did it lengthwise because it works up a lot faster.)

Chain desired length.
Row 1: Work V stitch in 4th chain from hook, skip the next 2 chains, V stitch in next stitch, work across to last 2 stitches. Dc in last stitch, chain 3, turn.
Row 2: Work V stitch in first chain 1 space and in each ch 1 space across. Dc in the top of the turning chain.
Repeat row 2 until you have the desired width. Change colors as desired. In this pattern, I had three rows of cream, two of purple and three more of cream. When you change colors, leave a long length to be worked into the fringe (no weaving in the ends!). Finish off each color if you want or just leave the last two loops on the hook and pull the new color through. It really doesn't matter how you do it.

You can work a round of single crochet around the scarf if you want (I did), just work around the loose ends. Put fringe in the desired stitches (I did it in every other stitch) and work the loose ends into the fringe, pulling tight, but do not pucker your work.

Cell Phone Bag or Small Purse

I made this bag with Moda Dea Beadnik yarn in chocodelic color. Because of the little beads in this yarn, I wouldn't recommend using this yarn unless you were going to line the bag. The beads will scratch the cell phone.

Other materials needed:
H hook
2 buttons

*Make sure to measure the bag against your cell phone or other items you want the bag for. I made this to fit my cell phone and still have some space, but cell phone sizes vary.

Chain 15

Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across (14 sc) Chain 1, turn.
Row 2: Sc in each sc across, chain 1, turn.
Repeat row 2 for desired length, minus two rows. Do not finish off! I made mine long enough to go around my cell phone and still have a flap.
Second to last row: Sc in first 3 sc, chain 2, skip 2 sc (button hole made), sc in next 4 sc, chain 2, skip 2 sc (next button hole made), sc in next 3 sc, chain 1, turn. The rule for this row is this: Determine how many button holes you need. I did two because I wanted to use two buttons. I had to decide how far apart the buttons had to be. If you are just using one, make the button hole in the center, if you are using two, it's a little tougher. Whip out those math skills and put them about a third from the side.
Last row: Sc in first sc and in next 2 sc, 2 sc in chain space, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in chain space, sc in next 3 sc. Do not finish off. The rule for this row is this: Work sc in each sc to chain space. Work the same amount of sc as their are chains that make up that space (I did 2 sc because I had 2 chains). Sc in each sc to the end. (If you have two button holes, just repeat the entire row to the end.)

Edging:
In same space as last sc, work two more sc (corner made). Sc in each row down the side, 3 sc in corner, work 1 sc in each of the free loops across the bottom, 3 sc in the corner, and work sc in each row up the other side, 3 sc in last corner, join with sl st to first sc in that row. Finish off. (You do not need to work across the top of the project to the other corner because that is already a row of sc. You can do it if you want.)

Strap and side seams:
Fold as desired, making sure to place the phone (or other objects) inside to make sure you get the right height for the phone. Starting at bottom of right side, join with sc to first 2 sc (that are now across from each other). Sc up the side, making sure to work through both sc of edging as you go.

When you reach the top, start a chain. Make it as long as you want your strap (or twice as long as it will be folded to attach to the other side of the bag). When you reach that length with your chain, sc in second chain from hook and in each chain back, then turn and work a sc back up the strap in the free loops on the other side of the chain (it's like crocheting a border in the free loops). Your other option would be to just sl st back in each single crochet. The point of this is to make the strap sturdy and get you back to the other side so you don't have as many ends to weave in.

Do not twist the strap and make sure the "pocket" of your purse is straight. If it is, join the strap with a sc at the beginning of the seam on the left side. Work sc down the side (working through both sc) to the bottom. Finish off.

To add buttons, cut a length of yarn about 8 or 10 inches long. Begin to weave it in a few rows above where the buttons will go. Weave in a few inches. When you get to where the button should go, put the needle through the button hole and pull the button down to the work. Make sure the button is lined up with the button hole before continuing. Continue weaving until the yarn is gone. This should secure the button well. (If you use two buttons like I did, do the same with the other button, but be sure to weave the yarn through the work to the next button space before putting the button onto the yarn.)

Weave in ends.

Sorry it's hard to understand. It was easy to make and it sounds more complex than it really is.

Child's Rug

This pattern can also be used as an afghan.

Worsted Weight Yarn in desired colors and I hook. I used Red Heart Super Saver. Gauge is not important in this pattern.

Make 16 squares.

Add or subtract stitches as needed to reach desired size.

Square:
Chain 31
Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across. 30 sc.
Row 2: Chain 1, turn, sc in each stitch across. 30 sc.
Repeat row 2 until you get about 30 rows. If your work is not square, unravel it or add rows until it is.

Square edging:
Do not finish off. In the last sc on the last row, change to your edging color.
Do four rounds of sc in your edging color, making sure to work 3 sc in each color. Finish off and weave in all ends. Block if desired, but I didn't.

When you have finished making all your squares, assemble them as desired. Whipstitch the squares together and begin final edging. *A note on the edging: When adding the next color, do not turn your work. Before now, it didn't matter what side you wanted as your right side, but with the edging it will if you want it to look uniform.

Final edging:
Round 1: Starting at any corner, join edging color with a sc. Sc all the way around the rug, working 3 sc in each corner. Some decreases or increases may be needed to make the edges lay flat. Join to first sc and finish off.
Round 2: With one of your square colors, join at any corner with a sc. Sc all the way around the rug, working 3 sc in each corner. Again, some increases or descreases may be needed to make the edges lay flat. Join to first sc and finish off.
Repeat round 2 with each color. When all colors have been used, repeat round 1 again. Finish off.

Adult Hat

Materials needed:
Worsted Weight Cotton Yarn
H hook

I have not tested gauge for this pattern. Make sure to measure it before you finish it off.

*The pattern for the flower is not my pattern. I purchased it off Etsy. It will not be included here.*

*The chain 2 (or chain 1) at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch. When joining rounds, join to the first stitch you made after the chain. Do not turn your work.

Chain 4, join with sl st to form ring.

Round 1: Chain 2, make 13 dc into ring, sl st to first dc. 13 stitches
Round 2: Chain 2, make 2 dc in each stitch around, join with sl st to first dc. 26 stitches.
Round 3: Chain 2, make 2 dc in each stitch around, join with sl st to first dc. 52 stitches.
Round 4: Chain 2, make 1 dc in each stitch around, join with sl st to first dc. 52 stitches [each round from here on should have 52 stitches]
Round 5: Chain 1, make 1 hdc in each stitch around, join with sl st to first hdc.
Round 6: Chain 1, sc in each stitch around, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 7: Repeat round 6.
Round 8: Repeat round 5.
Round 9: Repeat round 4.

Remaining rounds: Repeat rounds 5-9 as many times as desired. It doesn't matter what round you end on, but do a round on sc to give it a finished look when you reach the desired size.

Curtain Tiebacks

Sorry the picture of this isn't very good.

I used worsted weight Caron Simply Soft in dark country blue and an H hook. Gauge is not important in this pattern.

Chain 52 (make it longer if desired)

Row 1: Hdc in third chain from hook and in each stitch across. Chain 2, turn.
Row 2: Hdc in first stitch and in each stitch across. Chain 2, turn.

Repeat row 2 until you have the desired height. (I did six rows.) Do not finish off.

Edging:
Row 1: Chain 1, work round of sc all the way around, making sure to work 3 sc in each corner. Join with slip stitch to first sc.
Row 2: Chain 1, work one round of reverse single crochet in each stitch. Join with slip stitch to first reverse sc. Finish off and weave in ends.

Using a safety pin, wrap the tieback around the curtain as tight as you want and pin in place. Do not pin it to the curtain.

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All the patterns on this site are the original works of the owner. Please don't sell the patterns. Items you make from them can be sold, but not in large quantities.

Please refer to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/us/ for more information.