Writer's Wrap

As an aspiring romance author, I find there are times when I want to wrap up in a blanket and do some editing or writing, but sometimes it's hard to wrestle a whole blanket. This wrap has handy pockets to hold some "author's tools": a pocket dictionary or thesaurus, a small note book, a pen or highlighter or just a place to put my hands when I'm reading my book on the laptop. This pattern would also make a good afghan if worked as one piece and made wider. I've told you the multiple in my notes.

Materials used:
MC (main color): 4 skeins Caron Simply Soft Eco (5 skeins may be needed if pockets are made)
CC (contrasting color): 1 skein Caron Simply Soft (use two skeins if they are only 5 - 6 oz)

Notes:
~This wrap is done as four pieces. The two large pieces are sewn together and the pockets are added to each end of the wrap. If you would like, the wrap can be worked as one piece, I've told you how in the pattern.
~If you would like a wider or narrower wrap, add or subtract 9 stitches from your starting chain or starting row (depending on method used).
~The skipped chain 3 on the first row and the chain 3 at the beginning of the remaining rows always counts as a dc.

Special Stitches:
Chainless Double Crochet Foundation Stitch
Sideways Cluster: Chain 3, *yo, insert hook in 3rd chain from hook, pull up a loop, yo, pull through two loops on hook. Repeat from * two more times. Yo, pull through all loops on hook.
Cluster: *Yo, insert hook in specified st, pull up a loop, yo pull through two loops on hook, repeat from * three more times. Pull through all five loops on hook.
Reverse Single Crochet (aka Crab Stitch)

The rows of color go like this:
19 rows MC
14 rows CC
22 rows MC (for half pieces)

Half Wrap Section (Make 2)
Row 1: With MC and using chainless double crochet foundation, make 63 dc. If using a chain, chain 65. Dc in fourth chain from hook and in each chain across. (63 dc).
Row 2: Chain 3, turn. Dc in next dc and in each dc across.
Rows 3-19: Repeat row 2.
Row 20: With CC, chain 3, turn. Dc in next dc, *work sideways cluster, skip 2 dc, work cluster in next dc, work sideways cluster, skip two dc, work 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, repeat from * to last two dc. Dc in next 2 dc. (6 cluster flowers)
Row 21: Chain 3, turn. Dc in next dc, * chain 2, skip sideways cluster, work cluster in cluster, chain 2, skip sideways cluster, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, repeat from * to last two dc. Dc in next two dc. (6 clusters)
Row 22: Chain 3, turn. Dc in next dc. *2 dc in chain 2 sp, dc in cluster, dc in chain 2 sp, dc in each of the next 4 dc, repeat from * to last two dc. Dc in last two dc. (63 dc)
Row 23-31: Repeat rows 20-22 four times
Rows 32-33: Repeat rows 20-21 once more.
Row 34: With MC, repeat row 22 once. (63 dc)
Remaining rows: Repeat row 2 a total of 21 more times.
One Piece Wrap:
If you want the wrap to be worked as one piece, from here, repeat row 2 22 more times (44 rows of 63 dc total) with MC, join CC and repeat rows 20-22 four times and rows 20-21 once more. Join MC and repeat row 22 once then work row 2 18 times.

Holding the piece wrong sides together (you decide which side is the right side) and whipstitch the halves together. Weave in loose ends and work edging.

Edging:
Round 1: Join yarn with sl st or sc to any corner stitch. Sc around entire piece, working 3 sc in each corner and a total of 2 sc for each dc row. (If it ripples, some decreases may be required) Join with sl st to first sc and finish off.
Round 2: Join contrasting color to any sc. Work reverse sc around entire piece. Join to first reverse sc and finish off. Weave in ends.
Note: additional rounds of sc in either color may be added. It's up to you.

Pocket (make 2):
Row 1: Make 27 foundation double crochet or chain 29 and dc in third chain from hook and in each ch across. (27 dc)
Row 2-9: Repeat row 2 of wrap pattern (27 dc)
Row 10-11: Repeat row 20-21 of pattern (3 cluster flowers)
Row 12: Repeat row 2 of pattern
Optional edging: Sc around entire pocket.

Finish off with tail long enough to sew pocket to wrap in desired position and place. Weave in ends.

Designed for Dad

Materials used:
Two skeins of I Love This Yarn! from Hobby Lobby
H hook

Gauge is not important in this pattern.

Note: Chain 3 at beginning of a row counts as first dc, as does the 3 skipped chains at the beginning of row 1. Chain 1 at beginning of a row does not count as a sc.

Chain 25
Row 1: Dc in fourth chain from hook and in each remaining chain across. 22 dc
Row 2: Chain 3, turn. *Fpdc around next st, bpdc around next stitch, repeat from * across to last dc. Dc in last dc. 22 dc
Row 3-8: Repeat row 2.
Row 9: Chain 1, turn. Sc in first stitch, *skip next st, sc in next stitch, sc in skipped stitch* repeat from * across to last st. Sc in last st. 22 sc
Row 10-12: Repeat row 9.
Row 13: Chain 3, turn. Dc in next st and in each st across. 22 dc.
Row 14: Chain 3, turn. *Bpdc around next st, fpdc around next stitch, repeat from * across to last dc. Dc in last dc. 22 dc.
Row 15-20: Repeat row 14.
Row 21-24: Repeat row 9.
Row 25: Repeat row 13.

Repeat rows 2-25 to length desired. End on either row 8 or row 20 repeat.

Finish off and weave in ends.

Chenille Scarf

A great scarf pattern for novelty yarn. Gauge is not important and best of all, there are no ends to weave in.

Materials: 2 skeins Lion Brand Chenille Thick and Quick in desired color. M hook.

Note: Scarf is worked lengthwise. Leave a long tail when you make your slip knot and a long tail as you join new yarn or finish off. Ends will be worked into the fringe.

Foundation row: Chain odd number of stitches the desired length of the scarf. Dc in 4th chain from hook. *Chain 1, skip next chain, dc in next chain, repeat from * across to end, making sure to end with a dc in last chain.

Remaining Rows: Chain 4, turn, skip first dc and first ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, *chain 1, dc in next dc, repeat from * across, ending with dc in last dc.

Repeat as many times until you reach the width desired, making sure to change yarn or colors only at the end of a row.

Add fringe in every dc at each end of the scarf, making sure to secure the yarn ends into the fringe as you do it. Trim fringe to be even and enjoy!

Suede Textured Scarf

I used a K hook and 2 skeins of Lion Suede in a solid color. If you use a multi color skein, the scarf will require more yarn unless you make your starting chain shorter. Gauge is not important in this pattern.

(Multiples are 2 + 4)
*Chain three at the beginning of each row counts as the first dc.
Special stitches used:
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)

Chain 16
Row 1: Dc in fourth chain from hook and in each chain across, chain 3, turn. (Skipped 3 chains counts as the first dc). 14 dc.
Row 2: Skip first dc, *fpdc around next dc, bpdc around next dc, repeat from * to last stitch. Dc in top of ch-3. Chain 3, turn. 14 dc.
Row 3: Skip first dc, *bpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, repeat from * to last stitch. Dc in top of ch-3. Chain 3, turn. 14 dc.
Remaining rows: Repeat rows 2 and 3 for length of scarf.

Edging and fringe are optional. I only used fringe on the multi-colored one, but it took more than 2 skeins of yarn.

Romance Scarf

I call this my romance scarf because I made it with yarn that was the same colors as my wedding colors.

Materials needed:
worsted weight yarn
H hook

Gauge is not important in this pattern.

Do not weave in ends. Finish off each color at the end of a row. The end can be worked into the fringe if it is long enough.

Special stitches:
V Stitch (dc, chain 1, dc) in same stitch

Foundation Chain is in multiples of 3. Chain to desired length. (I did it lengthwise because it works up a lot faster.)

Chain desired length.
Row 1: Work V stitch in 4th chain from hook, skip the next 2 chains, V stitch in next stitch, work across to last 2 stitches. Dc in last stitch, chain 3, turn.
Row 2: Work V stitch in first chain 1 space and in each ch 1 space across. Dc in the top of the turning chain.
Repeat row 2 until you have the desired width. Change colors as desired. In this pattern, I had three rows of cream, two of purple and three more of cream. When you change colors, leave a long length to be worked into the fringe (no weaving in the ends!). Finish off each color if you want or just leave the last two loops on the hook and pull the new color through. It really doesn't matter how you do it.

You can work a round of single crochet around the scarf if you want (I did), just work around the loose ends. Put fringe in the desired stitches (I did it in every other stitch) and work the loose ends into the fringe, pulling tight, but do not pucker your work.

Cell Phone Bag or Small Purse

I made this bag with Moda Dea Beadnik yarn in chocodelic color. Because of the little beads in this yarn, I wouldn't recommend using this yarn unless you were going to line the bag. The beads will scratch the cell phone.

Other materials needed:
H hook
2 buttons

*Make sure to measure the bag against your cell phone or other items you want the bag for. I made this to fit my cell phone and still have some space, but cell phone sizes vary.

Chain 15

Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across (14 sc) Chain 1, turn.
Row 2: Sc in each sc across, chain 1, turn.
Repeat row 2 for desired length, minus two rows. Do not finish off! I made mine long enough to go around my cell phone and still have a flap.
Second to last row: Sc in first 3 sc, chain 2, skip 2 sc (button hole made), sc in next 4 sc, chain 2, skip 2 sc (next button hole made), sc in next 3 sc, chain 1, turn. The rule for this row is this: Determine how many button holes you need. I did two because I wanted to use two buttons. I had to decide how far apart the buttons had to be. If you are just using one, make the button hole in the center, if you are using two, it's a little tougher. Whip out those math skills and put them about a third from the side.
Last row: Sc in first sc and in next 2 sc, 2 sc in chain space, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in chain space, sc in next 3 sc. Do not finish off. The rule for this row is this: Work sc in each sc to chain space. Work the same amount of sc as their are chains that make up that space (I did 2 sc because I had 2 chains). Sc in each sc to the end. (If you have two button holes, just repeat the entire row to the end.)

Edging:
In same space as last sc, work two more sc (corner made). Sc in each row down the side, 3 sc in corner, work 1 sc in each of the free loops across the bottom, 3 sc in the corner, and work sc in each row up the other side, 3 sc in last corner, join with sl st to first sc in that row. Finish off. (You do not need to work across the top of the project to the other corner because that is already a row of sc. You can do it if you want.)

Strap and side seams:
Fold as desired, making sure to place the phone (or other objects) inside to make sure you get the right height for the phone. Starting at bottom of right side, join with sc to first 2 sc (that are now across from each other). Sc up the side, making sure to work through both sc of edging as you go.

When you reach the top, start a chain. Make it as long as you want your strap (or twice as long as it will be folded to attach to the other side of the bag). When you reach that length with your chain, sc in second chain from hook and in each chain back, then turn and work a sc back up the strap in the free loops on the other side of the chain (it's like crocheting a border in the free loops). Your other option would be to just sl st back in each single crochet. The point of this is to make the strap sturdy and get you back to the other side so you don't have as many ends to weave in.

Do not twist the strap and make sure the "pocket" of your purse is straight. If it is, join the strap with a sc at the beginning of the seam on the left side. Work sc down the side (working through both sc) to the bottom. Finish off.

To add buttons, cut a length of yarn about 8 or 10 inches long. Begin to weave it in a few rows above where the buttons will go. Weave in a few inches. When you get to where the button should go, put the needle through the button hole and pull the button down to the work. Make sure the button is lined up with the button hole before continuing. Continue weaving until the yarn is gone. This should secure the button well. (If you use two buttons like I did, do the same with the other button, but be sure to weave the yarn through the work to the next button space before putting the button onto the yarn.)

Weave in ends.

Sorry it's hard to understand. It was easy to make and it sounds more complex than it really is.

Child's Rug

This pattern can also be used as an afghan.

Worsted Weight Yarn in desired colors and I hook. I used Red Heart Super Saver. Gauge is not important in this pattern.

Make 16 squares.

Add or subtract stitches as needed to reach desired size.

Square:
Chain 31
Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across. 30 sc.
Row 2: Chain 1, turn, sc in each stitch across. 30 sc.
Repeat row 2 until you get about 30 rows. If your work is not square, unravel it or add rows until it is.

Square edging:
Do not finish off. In the last sc on the last row, change to your edging color.
Do four rounds of sc in your edging color, making sure to work 3 sc in each color. Finish off and weave in all ends. Block if desired, but I didn't.

When you have finished making all your squares, assemble them as desired. Whipstitch the squares together and begin final edging. *A note on the edging: When adding the next color, do not turn your work. Before now, it didn't matter what side you wanted as your right side, but with the edging it will if you want it to look uniform.

Final edging:
Round 1: Starting at any corner, join edging color with a sc. Sc all the way around the rug, working 3 sc in each corner. Some decreases or increases may be needed to make the edges lay flat. Join to first sc and finish off.
Round 2: With one of your square colors, join at any corner with a sc. Sc all the way around the rug, working 3 sc in each corner. Again, some increases or descreases may be needed to make the edges lay flat. Join to first sc and finish off.
Repeat round 2 with each color. When all colors have been used, repeat round 1 again. Finish off.